Tone Systems — The Danger Map
EU vs US: the differences that matter
Schwarzkopf
Numeric (dash)
Redken
Letters
Tone Mapping
SKPMeaningRDKMatch
-0NaturalN✅
-1AshA🟢
-2Ash (Blue)AB🟡
-3Matte (Green) ★—🔴 TRAP
SKP -3 = GREEN. Most brands have no equivalent. Do NOT substitute .3 from another brand (it is GOLD).
-4BeigeGB🟡
-5Gold ★G🔴 TRAP
SKP -5 = GOLD. Other brands' .5 = MAHOGANY. The mapping is REVERSED.
-6ChocolateM🟡
-7CopperC🟢
-8Red ★R🔴 TRAP
SKP -8 = RED. Wella /8 = PEARL (Blue). They are OPPOSITES!
-9VioletV🟢
Key Differences
Schwarzkopf is the most divergent brand. Its tone numbers do not follow the ICC standard.
Wella also diverges: /4 = Red (not Copper), /6 = Violet (not Red).
L'Oréal is closest to ICC. It is the safest brand for ‘the number means what you expect.’
Letter codes (Redken/Matrix) are more intuitive: A=Ash, G=Gold, R=Red. Fewer errors.